In historical Goa, once the colony of the Portuguese, the past & the present coalesce in harmonious wonder. Lazy, languid lifestyles intersperse with hard-driven tourists aiming to grab their share of sun-dappled beach-life. Worn-away forts, whitewashed Churches, vibrant Temples stand witness to Goa’s amazing dichtomy, offering you a rich tapestry of experiences.
Mitaroy Suites Goa, a 200-year-old Portuguese bunglow restored with care, embellished by a touch of Spanish flair, offers 4-designer suitesand is located in the UNESCO Heritage zone of Fontainhas.
DAY – 1 :
Welcome to Goa : Land in Dabolim Airport, arrive in Fontainhas, a 40-minute drive away (Rs 800) and be accorded a traditional welcome by Jack, your caretaker, into this quaint bunglow – the water-body at the entrance, the tiled, red-oxide ‘balcao’ where you can spend many hours whiling away the time of the day or night just like the locals do (imbibing a fiery feni or a really-chilled beer, with our best compliments) into a large lounge with a high-high tiled-roof. Your personal dwellings ( ground or first floor) consist of a large lounge room, an equally large aiconditioned bedroom with an antique bed, a large modern toilet. Equipped with your own fully-stocked fridge ( beers, juices, water, ice, wine) and furnished lovingly, your ‘home’ in Goa will make you feel at home !
Heritage Walkabout : In the evening, just before sundown, take a ramble around your ‘home’. Fontainhas, your neighbourhood, is a UNESCO heritage Walkabout zone, attracting all history-loving tourists. Fontainhas. (fountain in Porto) replete with period, tile-roofed cottages, narrow byelanes, a 400-year-old Chapel, a canal running alongside and some delightful eating-drinking places. You’ll be transported to another time, another era – stop by at 31 january Bakery to buy scrumptous ‘bebbinca’ or ‘dodhol’, both traditional savouries of the Goan. End your walkabout with dinner at our very-own Linda’s Viva Panjim – try out her squid reshaad and prawn-curry-rice with a home-made feni to wash it down.
DAY – 2 :
Fortified – Fort Aguada & Jail : Truly refreshed after a night’s rest, drive down about 30 mts to the Aguada Fort, a magnificient laterite structure that offers a stunning view of the confluence of the river and the sea, about 100 ft above sea-level. We’ll pack a picnic basket and that will include a couple of beers / juices, courtesy of the house. A few centuries ago, this also housed the inmates of the now-defunct Jail, but glimpses of the past always remain in these ramparts, bearing rich testimony to the many invaders of this pretty land. Check out the mysterious underground tunnels, the moats and the far-as-the-eye-can-sea view with the odd ocean-liner, iron-ore barges, colourful bobbing fiashing-boats and swank sail-boats. Stop by at O’Coquero restaurant, whose excellent Goan-Continental cuisine became the downfall of the notorious Vietnamese-born French-national, serial-murderer, dubbed ‘bikini-killer’ preying on unsuspecting foreign travellers by ‘drugging’ & robbing them. Charles Sobhraj, the man, spent an inordinate time ‘planning’ and enjoying the food hereabouts until the police swooped down and caught him in their net; he still languishes in jail awaiting trial. O’Coquero is a nice, open-faced eatery serving authentic Goan cuisine at very reasonable prices (meal for 2 Rs 800).
Afloat on the river : The Mandovi Bridge, not unlike the Kwai, has collapsed more than once, but forms the life-line to North Goa. Take the free-ferry (man & vehicle jostle for space) across the river to the other side (fish-market) and walk down a bit to see the lovely layout-by-the-river of world-renowned Goan architect Charles Correa, who has done a building at MIT Boston too. Charles, a frail old man who lives there when in Goa has also created wonderful spaces in our very own Kala Academy at Campal-Miramar, als worth a visit at sunset. Take an evening carnival-ferry that floats upstream & downstream for 2 solid hours, offering a view of the twinkling lights of Panjim city at sundown, a stunning sunset at the confluence and an array of dances & songs, Goan & Hindi – choose the sober lower-deck or the action-packed upper-deck to dance in gay abandon. This is compliments of the house and Jack will be happy to ‘ferry’ you to the jetty, a 5-minute walk from your ‘home’. Stop by at Venite, a quaint restaurant – drink a (local) Kings beer and enjoy the continental food and don’t miss the graffiti (even on the roof !).
DAY – 3 :
Indulge in bird-watching – Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary : Wake up early and take a short drive down to the bird sanctuary, named after India’s most famous ornitholgist, to sight some colourful & rare species of birds. Again our picnic basket will help you on your way.
Travel through time – Old Goa : About 5 kms away from Panjim, is a Church that houses the mortal remains of the patron saint of Goa, St Francis Xavier, in a silver casket. The simple-yet-imposing laterite-stone edifice is open to all to worship the saint. The exposition of St Francis Xavier’s body in the enclosed casket, happens once in 4 years, in the first week of December, which is the saint’s birthday. The Se Cathedral, on the other side of the highway, is also an imposing structure. Nearby is the Museum, definately worth a visit, nay, an hour at least, to understand the byegone era.
St Sebastian’s Chapel : Drop in for evening vespers at this 400-year-old chapel and discover the silence of the area in close proximity to the Almighty. Having paid your obesience to your maker, get a bit more earth ‘Down The Road’, a pub-by-the-canal offering live music and enjoy the evening eating, drinking, dancing and being merry, cause tomorrow you’re gone !!!
DAY -4.
Beachcoming – North Goa : Goa is famous for its sun-kissed beaches, secluded coves, cool, blue waters amidst the refreshing greenfields & whitewashed Churches. Each whiff of salty-spray revives your soul, every grain of sand brings its own joi-de-vivre, something found only in Goa, inexplicably so. Walk the sea, splash in the waves, explore the water-world by snorkelling in the shallow parts of the beach at Candolim, Baga or Anjuna, all a 30-minute drive away. Applaud the daring fishhermen with their catch by having freshest of sea-food done right under-your-nose in those wonderful thatched ‘shacks’ right on the beach as you while away the hours of the day, drinking chilled beer, unwinding. Get a rub-down by any of the many ‘masseurs’ who float by. A whole day on the beach to do just nothing, except stare at the horizon and day-dreaming of all the things-to-do-before-I-die ! The nicest way to end a visit to Goa, is to watch the sun set over the watery horizon, in a semi-stupor, and get prepared to say goodbye to the land of freedon, as you dine under the stars.
DAY -5.
Lazy-days. Get up late, as you’ve done all through your stay. Allow yourself to indulge in a late, late brekker of a variety of fruit-juices, locally-made fresh-pav (unleavened breads), potato & channa (lentils) bhaji, ham, backon, cheeses, home-made jam & marmalade, boiled eggs and more from a buffet served to you at-any-time as-you-like-it. Late check-outs are welcomed, so don’t worry about a late flight or train. Like hopefully, you’ve been pampered, and feel relaxed & refreshed to go back to your routine lifestyle…until you choose to come back for more sosegaad!
5 Day 4 Night Heritage Package: Rs. 29,000
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In the past 27 years I have always spent Christmas in Bangalore with family and friends apart from once or twice in Delhi or Mumbai. But this time, with our son’s Hotel in Goa, my husband and I decided to experience Christmas in Goa like true Goans.
We reached here on18th December to a really chilly morning (most unlike our earlier Goan experiences where the weather was hot and sunny) On the 19th of December, Goa celebrated 50 years of Goan Liberation. We spent the day reading the whole story of Goan Liberation in different papers and then watching all the schools in the neighbourhood take out parades with drums and slogans in different directions. The Government of Goa also organised several programmes, among them the honouring of the famous architect Charles Correa – the world renowned son of the soil whose fame has spread far beyond the shores of his native state of Goa. Following which, there were several musical events and speeches.
Slowly the city of Panjim is getting dressed up for Christmas – the old heritage houses and hotels are painstakingly decorated with stars, Christmas trees and colourful lanterns. Lots of Santas and people singing carols in the church square.
When I was young, we youngsters used to go carol singing in Delhi from one Christian/Catholic house to another and to the Embassies as well. We were always offered plum cake, “kuswar” (a traditional Goan/Mangalorean sweet), sweet wine and given money which went for a charitable cause – Our reward was a lovely picnic after New Year.
In Goa, they have a different tradition. People of all ages dressed in Santa caps and stoles and carrying colourful lanterns walk the streets singing christmas carols to spread Christmas Cheer in the neighbourhood of Fontainhas, for both Christians and Non Christians alike. They warmly welcomed me to the group and I must say I really enjoyed reliving my childhood experience.
Most Christian households in Goa are busy making “kuswar” (with some just buying from the nearest bakery) and cakes, putting up the crib and Christmas trees. Apart from the regular stores selling Christmas decorations, several makesift ones have come up across the neighbourhood of Fontainhas. Stars of different sizes and colours have come up. And of course everyone is making the rich plum cake and different wines to share with friends and family. One old neighbour even asked me whether I’ve got my new dress ready!!!
Tomorrow we get ready for the open – air midnight mass, in front of the Church singing lots of christmas carols (the choirs have been practising seriously for the past few days) and after greeting each other come home for cake and wine.
Then to get up on Christmas Day and enjoy the festive feeling, exchange sweets with neighbours and friends and settle down to a hearty Christmas lunch.
A 4 Suite Hotel only for Couples, the Mitaroy Goa Hotel is located in the UNESCO Heritage Zone of Fontainhas. Fontainhas is quietly tucked away from all the hustle and bustle of Panjim, yet is only a few minutes walk to the Panjim Jetty. Known as Asia’s only Latin Quarter, Fontainhas is quaint, quiet and pollution-free – an idyllic bastion of the old Portuguese times.
The property itself is an over 200-year-old Portuguese Bungalow, carefully restored by one of India’s most respected architects who has created a happy blend of the old and the new – an inviting water-body at the entrance, terra-cotta floor-tiles, typical white walls, exposed laterite stone walls, wooden staircase, large French windows, old doors, a relaxing red-oxide balcao to while away the time of the day.
The Suites are spacious near 1000 sq feet with a lounge, bedroom, bath and balcony or garden area. Antique furniture, airconditioning, modern toilets, hand made toiletries, crisp bed-linen and caring service blend seamlessly to offer the discerning guest a memorable stay.
Couples staying at the Mitaroy Goa Hotel experience life in the slow lane – cats stretched out lazily on window-sills, fisher-women doing her rounds, replete in her marathi-style sari, bakers with their hot Goan “pav” breads tooting along on their cycle. Fontainhas is seemingly an idyllic “vaddo” (village) but just a stone’s throw from city-centre. A walk through the narrow lanes and quaint bye-lanes of Fontainhas makes for quite an unforgettable romantic experience.
In congruence with the leisurely lifestyle of the Goans, breakfast is served at a time of your choice (none of the hustle and bustle of a typical hotel buffet). Bacon, salami, boiled-eggs, fresh fruit & fruit-juice, Goan pav bread, aloo bhaji, butter, natural fruit jam, marmalade, cheese and freshly brewed coffe or tea.
Lunch and dinner are not served at the Mitaroy Goa Hotel. Instead, guests are encouraged to wander and visit the typical local Goan restaurants and sample the local fare – typical Goan cuisine at Linda’s, fusion cuisine at Venite (Latin for “Oh Come” ) or a typical Portuguese food at the Horseshoe restaurant – that is in abundance in and around Fontainhas. For entertainment, the local hotspot “Down The Road” or the casinos with their jettys just a 5 minute walk away beckon the daring. A boat cruise at sundown on the Mandovi River, a romantic movie at the Inox multiplex cinema or window shopping at the swank, new Caculo Mall nearby are pleasant ways to while away your time.
Jack, your natty caretaker & guide will be happy to assist with any longer journeys you may wish to make to the beach, Old Goa, Mangueshi Temple or the famous bird sanctuary in Diwar. He might even take you for a walkabout in the Fontainhas area, known for its heritage walk circuit.
Innumerable options to keep you busy on the 4 Day 3 Night Romantic Package with late check out option if you so wish comes with a price tag of Euros 100 per night.
For more information and pictures, check out their website at www.mitaroygoahotel.com or mail them at mitaroygroup@gmail.com (call 0-9448087708). For those living in Europe, Mihir Nayak, the young Austria-based owner is available at mihhirnayak@gmail.com (call 0043-6802303682).